You don’t need to be an experienced musher or have a large kennel of dogs to enjoy mushing with your pet dog! There are tons of options for exercising your pooch and having a blast at the same time, but dog powered sports have to be some of the most fun! Dog powered sports include skijoring, bikejoring, canicross, scootering and carting, and are becoming very popular with dog owners all around the world.


WHAT ARE THESE DOG POWERED SPORTS?

Dogs have been pulling for thousands of years and humans naturally want to harness that energy. Most Alaskan dog enthusiasts are familiar with skijoring, a sport where one to three dogs pull a cross country skier, but many people have never heard of the other forms of small team dog mushing. Bikejoring and scootering are very similar to skijoring, although they are performed on dry land, instead of snow, and the towline is attached to the bicycle or scooter. Some companies are also marketing attachments that keep the dog to the side of the bicycle, which are an excellent alternative to bikejoring if your dog isn’t interested in pulling or if you are biking in a crowded area.

Canicross is cross country running while hitched to a dog, and is a popular competitive sport in Europe. Carting has two forms, one of which is a slow and controlled drafting of a cart of supplies, usually at a walking pace; the other version of carting is a type of speed mushing on a three or four wheeled vehicle, also called dryland mushing. This article will specifically be focusing on speed dryland mushing, which is particularly popular on the east coast and down under where snowfall is minimal.

Unlike skijoring, where the musher expends significant energy for balance and control, the dry land mushing sports require less physical effort from the human, which makes these sports open to people who are in less than perfect physical shape. These sports are a fantastic way to bond with your dog and help him expend that pent up energy!

WHAT KIND OF DOGS CAN DO THESE SPORTS?

Almost any medium sized, moderate to high energy dog can be a successful small team sled dog, particularly if they have a penchant for pulling! It appears that Pointers, Pit Bulls and Northern Breed dogs, including Huskies, Samoyeds, Chinooks, Malamutes, and Greenland Dogs, have the most desire to learn these sports, and are most suited to becoming competitive, but other breeds of dogs have excelled, as well. Does anyone remember Jon Suter, who mushed the Standard Poodles in the Iditarod?

Smaller breeds can have success with these sports, as well, although it is very important to keep the load light and not to overstrain their more delicate bones and ligaments. On the other end of the spectrum, large breed dogs tend to have severe joint problems if pushed to go too far or too fast, because of their weight. I recommend speaking with your vet before attempting these activities with your small or large breed dog, although it is always a good idea to evaluate the health and ability of any dog in regard to participating in pulling activities.

WHAT KIND OF EQUIPMENT DO I NEED?

Unlike mushing an Iditarod team, you need to invest in minimal equipment for these activities. For any of the different types of dog powered sports, you will need a proper fitting harness and a bungee line. It is important to use a bungee line, as opposed to a rigid line, to prevent physical stress to your dog and also to ensure a smooth ride, free from jerking stops and starts. These bungee lines come in one and two dog styles.

Many of the mushing outfitters in Alaska sell these items for very reasonable prices and will help you to find the proper fitting harness for your dog. Some of the shops that sell quality equipment are Alaska Mill and Feed, in Anchorage, Cold Spot Feeds, in Fairbanks or Animal Food Warehouse on the Palmer-Wasilla Highway.

For bikejoring or scootering, you will also need a bicycle or scooter with aggressive knobby tires and quality brakes, to ensure that you remain in control. The ideal way to attach the bungee line to a bicycle or scooter is directly below where the handlebar stem enters the frame. Do not tie yourself to the dog while scootering or bikejoring, as serious falls and injury can occur! You are much more likely to thwart injury if you can maintain balance and control.

For skijoring and canicross, you will need a skijoring belt, which are similar to climbing harnesses, and come in a wide array of styles. I recently even saw one for sale that has an attached backpack for long trips! Skijoring harnesses are found at most mushing supply stores, both in Alaska and online. You will also need a pair of cross country skiis, boots and poles for skijoring, and these can be purchased inexpensively at a second hand store.

Carting, or dryland mushing, tends to be a bit more expensive, as the “rigs” or carts range from hundreds to thousands of dollars, because of the high quality of brakes and welding workmanship. Most of these carts are lightweight aluminum and are extremely maneuverable, also boasting locking brakes, which allow the musher use of both of his or her hands, if necessary. Some of the nicest rigs are made by Chris Rogers of Artic Rigs in Togo, Minnesota, and cost a fraction of other heavier carts.

HOW DO I START?

It is a good idea to start by teaching your dog good manners and commands with groundwork. You will need a good pair of walking or jogging shoes and some patience. Your dog should have worn the harness a few times before training, in order to get used to it.

“LINE OUT” or “PULL TIGHT”

Start by harnessing the dog and attaching a leash or bungee line to the tug line on the harness. Tie the leash or bungee line to a post or some other sturdy object and line the dog out, leading him by the back of the harness or the collar. Give him the command to “line out” or “pull tight.” Step behind the dog. If he turns around or walks away, you must immediately put him back to the original spot and repeat the command “line out” or “pull tight.” If your dog knows the “stay” command, you can also use that. It is imperative to be consistent, as you are teaching the dog to stand still and not mess around while you are stopped, which can prevent sudden bolts, tangles and injuries to both the musher and the dog.

Do not overdo the training and do not get frustrated! Work on it for 10 minutes at a time and then continue to the next step. It may take days or even weeks for the dog to respond regularly to the command, but eventually he will.

PULLING

Some dogs have a natural ability to pull, and the best way to keep control is to continue with groundwork. After working on the line out command, keep your dog in harness and go for a walk! These walks will teach the dog to stay out front because you will not allow him to sniff around or stop. It is best to start on a quiet trail or road to prevent too many distractions. Some dogs get bored while going slow and prefer to go faster, so speeding up to a brisk walk or a jog may be more incentive for him to pull. While you are on these walks or jogs, be sure to pay attention to your dog’s reactions to certain distractions, such as cars, birds and small animals, so that you can learn to pick up on what he is going to do before he does it. For example, my pointer puts his head down when he is thinking of chasing a bird or small animal, and because I am aware of the signs, I am able to prevent him from bolting, which in turn teaches him to stay the course.

At the same time, you will be able to work on directional commands. Simply say “Haw” when you turn the dog to the left and “Gee” when you turn the dog to the right. Many dogs pick up on the commands after numerous repetitions. If the dog responds to the command properly on his own, be sure to make a big deal about it so he knows that he has done well!

If your dog is not interested in pulling, try enlisting the help of someone to chase. They may call your pups name, have some really tasty treats or can even be running their dog in front of you. Another way to excite your dog to pull is to find a windy, narrow trail. Often dogs get very excited to see what is around the next corner, and the narrowness keeps them focused. The best way to teach your dog to pull is to have an experienced musher hook up and run your dog with one or two other experienced pullers. Dogs seem to pick up pulling more quickly when in this final scenario because of their strong pack instinct.

HOOKING YOUR DOG UP TO THE EQUIPMENT

If you have done the groundwork with your dog, you will have a great idea as to how your dog is going to react to being hooked up to a bicycle, scooter or cart, and you will have much more control. Start by going a short distance at a moderate speed, and try to find a gravel trail, as regularly running on pavement can injure your dog. Make it fun and easy for your pup, and be sure to NEVER push your dog beyond his limitations, or he may sour to the experience. End the outing before your dog stops pulling.

Always maintain control by feathering the brakes and predicting your dog’s next move, and definitely don’t allow your dog to sprint until he is fully trained. Always keep that line between you and your dog tight to avoid running over your dog or getting the line wrapped in your equipment!

Remember to never get frustrated with your dog! He will sometimes test his boundaries, especially if he knows that you have less control than normal, and getting frustrated will only make him less willing to learn to do his job properly. Just as with any other dog activity, if it’s not fun, the dog won’t do well! You may not be mushing to Nome, but traveling a mile or two is just as awesome!